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Wednesday, December 8, 2010

St. Nicholas Day

Monday was St. Nicholas Day, and it seemed to be much more an event than in the ol’ U.S. of A. Of course, this is true throughout Europe, but I gather there are some nuances unique to Croatia. That said, I could never quite figure out what was from Croatia, the area around Zagreb, or even Zagorje, which is the area between here and the Slovenian border. My Croatian readers and friends could clarify much for me, I’m sure, but I ask that they let me plow ahead with the basics.

Most of you know that St. Nicholas was a real person, unlike Santa Claus, who was derived from the original solely for a Christmas fantasy (please don’t show this to our grandsons). But they are similar in that they are very cool guys who bring goodies for little kids.

As the tradition goes, on the evening before the 6th of December children clean their shoes and put them in the window to await a visit from St Nicholas. He brings treats and small presents for each child. But he is always accompanied by his 'devil' friend, Krampus, who leaves a silver or gold sprayed birch twig to remind them of what might happen if they are naughty children (whack!).

So, on Monday in the market place—and in the spirit and tradition of St. Nicholas Day—branches sprayed with gold were being sold. Attached here you will see pics of two babushkas who were selling them. I bought mine from the Croatian baba in the first pic. The second baba may have been more of the Italian persuasion (and thus nona), because I gather the tradition extends all the way to Northern Italy.

Another pic shows those little devils hiding in the branches.

Meanwhile, a day or two before St. Nicholas day and all day on the 6th, people were walking around holding the gold branches, some with red ribbons. And in the spirit of it all, we adorned our window sill that looks down to a cold and damp Deželića street with some of those very same gold branches.

Well, on the day of celebration, we were lucky enough to be around Trg bana Jelačića (our main square) when St. Nicolas made an appearance by the skating rink. Needless to say, the kids loved it, but then again, so did we.

Finally, when I went to give a late eve lecture (4.15 to 5.45) at Uni Zagreb, the students were there…munching candy brought to them by ‘you know who’. Apparently they had behaved well.

I hope you all had a wonderful Happy St Nicholas Day and will have many more to come.

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